Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
